Rules, Guidelines and the Spirit of CycleKarts

CycleKarts are meant to be a lot of fun to drive, race, and build without breaking your piggy bank.  Unlike Fomula 1 or other types of racing, this is different in that the rules are more like general guidelines rather than real strict rules.  This community’s primary objective is to have fun, be safe, build on an affordable budget, and allow you the freedom to let your creativity soar. 

I also learned, that when they get together, their races are actually more of an exhibition-style race wherein you invite faster cars to pass you by rather than fight to stay ahead.  Their events are often witnessed by the public in city streets and other public venues, so safe driving to prevent any accident that might harm the public, and the driver, takes precedence over serious racing. To reinforce this concept, they never give prizes for the races, nor keep track or even publish the race results.  While at first, this may be a turn-off, if you’re like me you get their vision and the spirit of what this sport is all about and quickly embrace all of it.

To help those new to the sport, they have published the Stevenson formula or guidelines which you see below.  There also exists another group that have established a stricter set of rules for their Gittreville Grand Prix races.  Both are provided below.

 

Stevenson Guidelines

Important Engineering Points

Gittreville Rules

Overall objective

Good humor and fun.

Period

The eligible period for inspiration cars is the “Vintage Period”. Admittedly, this is a supremely vague designation! The VSCC (Vintage Sports Car Club), has defined the vintage period (since its founding in 1934) as ending December 31st 1930.The VSCC was founded on the premise that the “proper” vintage car building era ended under the pressure of mass production.The modernVSCC Club retains this strict definition of “vintage” but, as a club, also embraces post-vintage “thoroughbreds” of the period 1931 – 1940 and earlier Edwardian cars.The club even accepts exemplary, hand-built post-war cars.The common link is the spirit of adventurous motoring.The VSCC, more than any other collector car club, believes in driving: track racing, speed events, hill climbs, muddy trials and driving tests. It is our goal to be something very much like the VSCC (albeit with our cheap, home-made cars!)

Our desire is that the cars participating in the Gittreville Grand Prix generally “fit” with each other in scale, proportion, ability and spirit.We are certainly not looking for uniformity but we do want all the cars to emphasize the skinny wheel, bare knuckle, adventurous spirit of vintage motoring and to run with each other on roughly equal (fun) terms.

The Constructors Committee initially considered a very closely prescribed eligible period and draconian rules covering specific components in an effort to ensure a good fit and even field. In the end, we have realized that there can never be enough rules to absolutely ensure anything (least of all fun) and we’ve chosen instead to lead as best we can by example. Hopefully, we can inspire all interested builders and drivers to work toward the most important goal of good humor and fun.

Fun

These builder’s guidelines are not meant to cover event rules or driving etiquette but it is worth noting briefly that we are “serious” about our fun. All drivers are expected to maintain a genial attitude at all times. No exceptions. Drivers are expected to participate in course walks before events and to volunteer their help in all activities.

All events are put on collectively, no one should show up expecting to just “race”.


Grand Prix Formula

What follows is an outline of intentions and suggestions with a few absolute rules.

From time to time, we will reference the “classic formula” in our discussion.When we do so, we are referring to the Stevenson’s cyclekart formula. Our guidelines are a developed from those. Our approach is a bit looser since we (mostly) aren’t fiberglass people and are more open to complex fabricated metal solutions. See: http://www.cyclekarts.com/CycleKartSpecs.html.

We have never been particularly stringent about our classes and only once had enough cars qualify for our aspirational class (two) to stage a dedicated race at an event for it so we are changing our approach slightly.

NEW for 2017 we are adding an Event Seeding Overlay to these guidelines. This is our first major revision since the first edition of these guidelines eight years ago. See: Addendum.

Where we formerly tried to define classes on technical points we are now shifting to a system of tokens to determine “class” – more accurately “likelihood of participation”.The token system will determine priority for entry into events and grid position.We have to face the fact that our obscure hobby has grown to the point where we can’t fit in everybody all the time.We will be giving preference to the cars/ builders closest to our stated ideals of cyclekarting and to those who pitch in and help put on the events. Where before we had three technical classes, this year’s guidelines will describe only our Grand Prix class (unchanged).The guidelines, however, will continue to include a few instructive references to the two technical classes we are abandoning.Those classes represented the best of what we believe the true spirit to be and a generous inclusion of a less pure fringe.

The Event Seeding Overlay will now determine participation in a given event.

You don’t have to agree! These are Gittreville’s guidelines and apply only to our events. In no way should our guidelines be presumed to have any authority beyond that.At Gittreville events, however, they are the word.

Our ideals emphasize the magic of inspiration cars and the spirit of camaraderie.

We all love to race but our approach is to do that within an absurd construct that to a large extent pushes technical advantage as far off the table as we can get it.

Bottom line, build a reasonable car and help organize/ host and you can expect to participate.

OUTLINE of THE GUIDELINES

• CLASSES
• Grand Prix Class
• former Voiturette Class – clues to what we consider to be aspirational
• former Formula Libre Class – clues to things to avoid, or at least pursue with open eyes

• DIMENSIONS AND WEIGHT includes WHEELS AND TIRES • Thoroughbred exception
• Edwardian exception
• Veteran exception

• Hot Rod exception
• Three Wheel exception

• MOTOR includes Stage One Guidelines • DRIVELINES
• BRAKES
• SUSPENSION

• SAFETY
• CHASSIS / BODYWORK
• COST
• CHASSIS TAG
• COMPLIANCE
• ELECTRIC CLASS
• EVENT SEEDING OVERLAY

ALL CLASSES

• All cars must have an indelible metal chassis tag and legible racing numbers.
• All cars must have a clearly identified inspiration car from the vintage era, very loosely defined as ending in 1940. It is expected that the built cyclekart be generally guided by its inspiration car and that car’s racing era.We do not expect slavish replicas or fastidious historical accuracy but we do want the inspiration of the period to come through. Our cars are caricatures. As with a good caricature, the essential personality of the inspiration car should be evident.

GRAND PRIX CLASS

  • 39” absolute maximum track. No exceptions (in the sense that wider track is penalized)

  • 17” Ø wheels, 160 max. width rims, 2.75 max. width tires. Front and rear rims must be the same

    diameter.
    • 275 lbs maximum vehicle weight.

  • Honda GX200 (or clone) motor. “Stage 1” motor modifications encouraged but stock motors are also

    absolutely fine.

  • $2500 maximum expenditure for materials, components and parts made by others.

    VOITURETTE CLASS (our former aspirational class, included here for guidance – these points now gain advantage in the overlay)

  • 39” absolute maximum track. No exceptions.

  • 17” Ø wheels, 140 max. width rims, 2.50 max. width tires. Front and rear rims must be the same diameter. No

    exceptions.
    • 225 lbs absolute maximum vehicle weight. No exceptions

  • More-or-less stock motors encouraged. Stage 1 motors may be run (inexpensive “box stock” motors are already

    modified and as the primary objective of this class is to keep things simple and cheap there is no reason to

    exclude them.)

  • One wheel drive. No exceptions in track events.

  • $2000 absolute maximum expenditure for materials, components and parts made by others.

    FORMULA LIBRE (our formerly easily excluded class)

    • This class is intended to catch the cars modestly exceeding restrictions in the Grand Prix class that are still deemed to “fit” with the other cars. Excesses might be in dimensions or weight or it might be in more exotic engine modifications or simply in apparent cost.

    The effect of slipping out of the GP class into Formula Libre may not be any more severe than the application of a discretionary handicap in a given event. Formula Libre has been created with this intent.


Dimensions and weight

We have decided not to be particularly restrictive on length in order to allow for some of the very long
cars from the early part of the period.There are inherent drawbacks in having an excessively long car on
our courses so we feel length will be effectively self-policed.

In contrast, we have set 39” as the ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM track (front or rear).We are defining track as
measured from outside tire wall to outside tire wall on the contact side of the wheel (note: not
measuring to the edge of the contact patch).Wider tracks and fatter tires have performance potentials
that could easily make racing too serious and quickly spoil the fun.We aren’t trying to build 1 1/2 litre F1
cars from the early ‘60s!

We have debated and wrestled with self-doubt but have stuck with the classic 17” wheel formula.The
preferred rim size is 17” Ø with a few special exceptions outlined below. Maximum rim width is 160 and
the maximum tire width is 2.75. We fully understanding that 17” wheels are the most difficult size to
find. Sorry about that — we feel they are correct.

Important exceptions and associated handicaps:

Thoroughbred exception – 16” wheels will be allowed where they are in proportion with the inspiration
car (probably from the later 1930’s). 16” Ø wheels will be handicapped by restricting the allowed engine
to one class smaller, the GX160 – or – to running with one wheel drive. Up to 3.00” tires will be
permitted, again if in proportion, but cars using those wider tires will also be restricted to the GX160
engine (or 1WD).The handicap is the same for smaller and for wider. Both offer the promise of superior
performance so we are offsetting the presumed better handling and extra traction with the restrictions.

Edwardian exception – 18” Ø wheels will be handicapped in a different way.Whereas we feel 16 x 3.00
wheels would look absolutely correct on a car inspired by a car from the late ‘30s (and the superior
performance that implies), 18” wheels will more likely suit the larger, heavier cars of the Edwardian
period.As we are following a methodology of either wheel size or tire width invoking a handicap, it is
assumed any variation in wheel size will probably be associated with wider tires (also 3.00 on 18”
Edwardian wheels).The handicap for 18” Ø wheels will be a minimum wheel base of 74” and the driver
may not sit lower than 4” (seat compressed) above the axle (wheel center) line. Only a true Edwardian
car is going to look right with a wheelbase this long and big balloon tires (we are holding fast to the 39”
maximum track).The wheelbase and higher pre-WWI look will force the real handicap: extra weight. Of
course, long pre-war cars are not precluded from using 17” Ø wheels and sitting lower (for example,
Bedelia and GN). If an Edwardian car has a shorter wheelbase (than 74”) or the driver sits lower than 4”
above the wheel center the car must use 17” wheels and maximum 2.75 tires.

Veteran exception – No minimum wheelbase for these very early cars but the driver must sit at least 8”
above the wheel center to utilize 18” Ø wheels and/ or 3.0 tires.The handicap is, of course, the
extremely high seating position.

 

Hot Rod exception – We’ve always said that our rules are dynamic and will evolve according to
circumstance.This exception is relatively new and so far, unused. Hot Rods and Lake Racers must have
different diameter wheels front to back wheels with fronts as small as 16” Ø and rears as big as 18” Ø.
The fronts MUST be narrower than the rears and this exception is only permitted if the driver sits no
lower than 1” above the rear axle centerline. Further, this exception is only valid if the inspiration car is a
true American Hot Rod. No real handicap – we think this is pretty cool.

Three wheel exception – Three wheel cars are sensibly permitted to use wider wheels and tires on a single
rear wheel than normally permitted.

Our original weight limit was raised from 250 lbs to 275 lbs several years ago (the former Edwardian
exception
). In spite of the raised GP Class limit, 240 to 250 lbs remains a good target.This is the weight of
the car without a driver.We are defining this weight as including oil and “some” gas in the tank.The
weight limit does not include things shown in concours but normally taken off for spirited driving: fake
headlights, engine covers, decorative fenders, etc..We feel the weight limit is a good idea.The limit forces
hard choices to be made on what components and features can be incorporated into the car. Some of
the inevitable compromises will dampen performance but, more importantly, they will also help
moderate the budget and control building time. Keeping things lighter and simpler keeps it fun.

There is no minimum weight.The extremely high proportional weight of the driver will offset any serious
performance gains from a featherweight car.

SUMMARY of dimensional guidelines

• Overall length: vague limit implied by proportion, 98” as a very softly suggested maximum.
• Wheelbase:“in proportion”, around 69” suggested – inspiration car is the best guide.
•Width (at track):ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM of 39” – around 37” is generally suggested.
Weight: maximum of 275 lbs.

 

Motor

We have decided to stick with the classic formula engine, the Honda GX200 utility motor.The exception
is when the Honda GX160 is mandated by the Thoroughbred handicap. Both of these units are
outstanding marvels of economical, mass production engineering.

In contrast to the classic formula, we will allow (actually encourage) “stage 1” modifications in our
GRAND PRIX CLASS. From experience, we feel “stage 1” motors enhance the drivability and fun factor
significantly over stock motors without creating excessive performance or incurring unreasonable costs.
Best of all, “stage 1” motors offer more things to tinker with! Generally “stage 1” includes removal of the
governor, heavier valve springs, advanced timing, lightweight fan, re-jetted carburetor (often removal of
the choke), disabling the low oil sensor, free breathing air filter and free flowing exhaust. Sometimes this
includes removal of the re-coil starter. Doing that has proved painfully inconvenient at Gittreville so
consider the tradeoffs before you remove the re-coil.There is nothing quite like finding yourself — with
the motor off — several miles away from your starter…

We have previously defined “stage 1” modifications as N-R Racing has defined them but found that
method led to a wandering “spec list”. Further,“box stock” motors have inconsistent modifications
already applied to them. So, see STAGE ONE SPECIFICATION RESTRICTIONS below.

Other makes of engine, B&S,Tecumseh, Robin, Predator, etc. are also fine.

The spirit of the rule is a nominal 6.5HP utility motor. We will accept any utility motor under (or
around) 200cc displacement for the GX200 class and any motor under 165cc for the GX160 class.
Purpose-built racing go-kart engines are not in the spirit of our formula. Engines must run on “regular”
pump petrol without octane boosters or any other blends.The later point excludes two-stroke motors.

 

STAGE ONE SPECIFICATION RESTRICTIONS

  • No change to compression ratio either through changing the head (GX160 on GX200 as example) or
    by milling.We won’t be able to catch a thinner head gasket so that is a loophole for interested builders
    to exploit. Event organizers may require all cars to use communal “regular” gas.

  • Stock valves, cranks, rods, pistons, etc. must be retained.The spirit of these restrictions should be clear.

  • Only the carburetor type delivered on the engine for utility use may be used, generally this means

    Keihin or Keihin clones. Mikuni,Walbro, etc., excluded. Maximum permitted bore is 0.625”.This will be
    checked by a no-go gauge. No restriction on re-jetting or emulsion tubes – builders are free to create
    trouble for themselves!

  • Valve spring stiffness is up to the builder.As with jets, more isn’t always better.There is no realistic
    opportunity for engines on our cars to run at extraordinary racing go-kart revs and the stiffest valve
    springs are excessive (and will contribute only to additional cam wear.) No after-market rockers are
    permitted. No oversize valves, etc.

  • Stock cams must be retained. Even mild re-grind cams will trigger a move to Formula Libre. Modified
    cams are easy to hear and the builder may be asked to sit in “the comfy chair” to answer some
    questions.

  • There are no restrictions on changing the flywheel. Clone motors should have a billet flywheel fitted if
    the governor is removed. Smaller fans may be used on Honda cast iron flywheels.Timing is up to the
    builder.

  • No restrictions on headers so long as the header has a muffler. Mufflers are absolutely required.

    It is worth noting that a well-cared for engine running a stock bore carb with a very modest jet proved
    itself to be virtually indistinguishable from cars with bored carbs and monster jets. Even bone-stock
    governed motors perform admirably. Keeping things simple is generally a wise course (but do disable the
    oil sensor so the car doesn’t cut out on corners)

    Our rules don’t require fuel pumps (or forbid them) and leaves the gas tank location open. Doing just
    the basic engine mods (short of Stage 1) adds almost all the performance gained by more sophisticated
    engine modifications.

    SUMMARY of engine guidelines

    • Engine: single cylinder utility motor; Honda GX200 or GX160 (if handicapped suggested). So called
    “Stage 1” modifications encouraged in GRAND PRIX CLASS, minimal modifications in VOITURETTE
    CLASS. Cost limits realistically preclude more. Motors must be muffled.“Stock”, B&S or RLV type muffler
    at a minimum. No straight pipes – our track has neighbors!

    Drivelines

    Experience has shown that a variable ratio belt drive is the most effective transmission.We are not
    banning go-kart type simple centrifugal clutches but strongly advise against them in our driving
    conditions. So far they have been frustrating failures.We recommend the Comet TAV-2 unit or
    equivalents for simplicity and dependability. For a little better performance, symmetric belt drives —
    MaxTorque, Comet Series 20 — are a good option.The symmetric drives require jack shafts so they are
    more complex. Both 6” and 7” drivens are permitted. Final drive is typically #35 or #41 chain but #40
    chain, other chains or even belt drive are not excluded.

    We decided to not ban final drive differentials.We have found that these enhance drivability
    tremendously. Differential units may be challenging to fit in the budget and track restriction might prove
    problematic, but they are not otherwise ruled out.The classic cyclekart formula advocates one wheel
    drive. Our committee does not entirely agree*. Solid rear axle, differential unit or one-wheel drive are all
    allowed in the GRAND PRIX CLASS.

    * One wheel drive does receive a bonus in the Event Seeding Overlay.

    SUMMARY of drive guidelines

    Clutch/ transmission: Comet TAV-2 (or equivalent) recommended.

    Brakes

    Our first car tested both drum and disk brakes.The classic formula calls for a disk brake. Our committee
    encouraged drum brakes as more in the spirit of the period until we suffered repeated (sometimes
    alarming) issues with brake fade. One of our cars tried band brakes (a pre-WWI anachronism) and after
    some fiddling got a pair of these to work almost as effectively as a single drum. It is not our intent to
    make anyone feel uncomfortable (unsafe) so the committee has decided to leave brake systems open.

    SUMMARY of brakes

    • Braking systems: you must have a functional brake but other than that, details are open. Hand, foot,
    cable, rod, drum, disk, band – all are permitted.While not yet mandatory, having a back-up brake is a very
    good idea.

Suspension

Front suspension schemes should follow the inspiration car. In our period this is usually a beam axle on
semi-elliptic springs.The classic formula calls for 2’ buggy seat leaf springs and typically this is the right
choice. Lighter cars from the period often have 1/4 elliptic schemes.Almost all cars in the period use
beam axles.A handful of potential inspiration cars have coil springs and independent front suspension
through a sliding pillar arrangement (Morgan and Lancia are most notable examples). Period, friction type
dampers are encouraged. Front suspension is absolutely critical to success on our bumpy track.Without
supple front suspension, steering is severely compromised because the wheels don’t make contact with
the ground often enough!

The classic formula calls for no rear suspension.We are more open.While the cars work reasonably well
without any rear suspension, they seem to work just a little better with some rear suspension.We have
tried a limited travel 1/4 elliptic scheme that works well and we have tried a fully functional, longer travel
rear suspension enabled through the use of a sub-frame for the engine/drive unit.The tradeoffs for rear
suspension are weight, cost and complexity. Chain alignment is the critical issue.

SUMMARY of suspension guidelines

• Front suspension: following the inspiration car, generally a semi-elliptically sprung beam axle.
• Rear suspension: none or following the inspiration car. None is a sensible choice.

Safety

Builders and all drivers must understand that what we are doing is inherently unsafe! These are fragile,
unstable, dangerous little machines – precisely why they are so much fun.We expect builders to take care
that they are not creating a reckless menace. Beyond that, we are children of John Stuart Mill.

SUMMARY of safety

Cyclekarts are unsafe
Readily accessible and functional “KILL” switch is required. No exceptions.

 

Chassis/ Bodywork

The classic formula calls for a plywood “monocoque” covered in foam then fiberglas with chassis rails
(steel tubes) attached to the sides of the plywood box in order to mount the front suspension and rear
axle.The committee sees the simple merits of this scheme and recommends it enthusiastically for the
VOITURETTE CLASS but does not want to exclude doing things better and more in the spirit of the
times. Our approaches so far have mostly utilized ladder type chassis with built up bodywork added.
There are a handful of monocoques in our period (Lancia and Voisin as notable examples) but generally,
bodywork sits on a ladder chassis. Bodies of wood or metal framed with a wood or metal skin on the
framework.“Fabric” bodies, very popular in our period, use fabric as the finish layer over wood – much as
one of our cars uses Sintra over wood. Our committee’s bias is clearly toward formed metal and we’ve
decided not to put any rules in its way!

Most important, for both the chassis and the bodywork, is to be guided by the inspiration car. Our
scoring system balances race and test results with subjective, period appropriate judging in the Concours
d’Elegance.The fastest car may not win the overall prize.

SUMMARY of chassis/ bodywork

• Chassis: technique open; a box steel ladder type chassis generally encouraged.
Bodywork: technique open; emphasis on in-the-spirit-of-the-period.

Cost

Controlling cost is a quaint thought we take seriously. Many builders do go over the limit. Others are
massively under.We don’t want to pretend to police this. In blatant cases or after good sportsmanlike
admission, a car may be re-classed as Formula Libre at the discretion of the event organizer solely on the
basis of perceived cost. Scrounging and adaptive reuse is fun! Builders will do well not to miss out on
that aspect of building cyclekarts.

Chassis Tag

Cars are not allowed to race or be judged without a chassis tag. At the minimum, this tag should declare
the inspiration car, the builder and the chassis number. Chassis numbers are assigned by the
Constructor’s Committee in sequential order of substantial project progress. Let us know what you are
planning to build. Give us a provisional spec. — wheels, general dimensions, drive scheme, etc. — and we
will give you a chassis number.

Racing numbers are chosen by the builder but are subject to availability. Number 1 is reserved for prior
year champions. Other numbers are assigned (permanently) on a first come – first choice basis.

 

Compliance

The committee is offering suggested guidelines, we will not aggressively enforce nit-picky rules.We play
on an honor system.

We will not do forensic accounting to verify that the budget is not exceeded. However, the committee
members know very well what things cost. Distrust of whether a car is “on budget” or not may effect
concours scores.We know from experience that a car that does not incorporate salvaged materials and
found objects is not likely to be “on budget”.

We will leave the possibility of disqualification or application of competitive handicaps to cars that appear
to have an “unfair advantage” based on blatant bending of the rules or grossly overrunning the budget
allowance to the sole discretion of the event organizers.The Race Marshal will have authority to impose
race-day handicaps unrelated to this set of builder’s guidelines. Handicaps are intended to level the field
and may be either beneficial or punitive.They may be utterly nonsensical. Some drivers may be required
to wear a flower on their lapel (a flower they might have to first pick before they can start). It is
assumed that no handicaps will be so severe that they dramatically affect the results. Handicaps are like
stage 1 engines – more to fiddle with! Don’t take this too seriously.

New for the 2017 Guidelines: chassis numbers must be maintained in “good standing”.This requires
specifications are kept up to date and a dozen or so images of the car are provided to the builder’s
committee. Send both to
dumfries@gittrevillegp.com.

Constructors Committee

The constructors committee is available for advice on any aspect of car building.We are very open with
information and more than willing to share our experiences to date. Committee members have made
terrible mistakes they hope to help others avoid.You will find that the committee is especially free with
its opinions…

Membership in the constructor’s committee is conditional on three things.

1. Experience building and driving a car with an easygoing spirit that promotes the S.C.C.A. objectives.
2. Good faith compliance with the Builder’s Guidelines as the committee maintains them.
3. Willingness to share information.We are doing this for fun, not for cutthroat competition.

The constructor’s committee exists to help all interested builders complete their projects, thereby
enabling an outstanding field of cars for The Gittreville Grand Prix and related events!

E CLASSES

We are continuing to investigate electric alternatives as experimental extensions to the established class.

Emphasis on exploration! Several years in and nothing is “final” yet.

E Classes offer the same opportunities to learn the fundamentals of vehicle dynamics, practical mechanical engineering and a wide variety of fabrication techniques as the gas cars.The E Classes add opportunities to address sustainability issues and to dabble in the dark arts (electronics).We imagine this will strike a chord with potential builders wrestling with social guilt.

Electric gets expensive quickly as performance improves. At all levels, batteries are heavy. Heavy batteries lead to heavy cars which leads away from the spirit of cyclekarts. We are hoping to find equivalence to what we expect as “normal” cyclekart performance and feel.

Costs are “very” roughly $1000 more than a Stage 1 (gas) car builds.

There is a low cost and lightweight general scheme suitable for our aspirational class but it is short on “sporting” performance.The Morgan F2 pursued this path and the result was the lightest and cheapest car to date (and super fun to drive.) Low weight is more important than ever but even so, the Morgan will certainly never be “race” competitive with more powerful cars. Super light electrics can be very competent in Driving Tests and other lower speed events.The compact electrical packages (for all electric cars) are easier to fit into vintage proportions offering benefits in Concours competitions (?) At the very least the electrics will make great parade cars and gracious guest drivers!

Our thoughts are coalescing around establishing three maximums:

48V, 20AH and 5KW.

48V.

As noted above, the “big thing” is batteries. More than anything else, they define cost, weight and performance. 48 Volts (nominal) is internationally recognized as the prudent limit for human shock risk. Our skin is a decent insulator (barrier to shock) but what is under our skin is a tremendous conductor. CK accidents can easily break the skin.We are establishing 48V (nominal) as a firm maximum pack voltage for safety.This limit has the added benefit of helping control costs.

20AH.

We are limiting battery capacity to 20 Amp/ Hours.This is primarily aimed at controlling cost but has the added benefits of holding weights down (a safety issue) and as a performance leveler. High power motors and robust controllers are tempting – limiting the battery packs creates a real limit to how much power can actually be exploited.The batteries will max out well before the motors will.The 20AH limit encourages a quest for efficiency vs power.

Very low cost is achievable using conventional (AGM – not wet) batteries and reasonable cost is still achievable with LiFe packs.

5KW.

We are limiting motors to 5 Kilowatts (nominal industry standard ratings) again to control cost, weight and performance.We are feeling our way through the new electric technology. It is our hope that in time, we will move toward using lower rated, perhaps 3KW, motors as a better match for the battery pack limits.

Our present state of the art for motors is BLDC (DC three phase) with sine wave controllers. Contactors (main on/ off switch relays) are recommended and may eventually become required.
In all classes, multiple motors are OK — say one per wheel — but the motors will be cumulative with regard to power limits.

State of the art for affordable batteries is LiFePO4 with BMS. Lithium-Ion with battery management. These batteries are stabile (won’t explode, etc.) and have good life.

SUMMARY of E class

GRAND PRIX E
48V, 5KW, 20AH.
Lithium or conventional batteries. Li with a (critical) battery management systems is expensive but what ya’ gonna’ do? Enhanced nonspecific spend limit.
25# added to the weight limit so: 300#.


 

Addendum: EVENT SEEDING OVERLAY

This is a token system where build and participation choices are aggregated to determine preference for
any given event.Tokens can be beneficial or punitive.

The tokens come from three categories: Performance, Cost and Spirit.To keep it simple, one either
“spent” or “gained” for each question.

Adding performance and cost beyond the assumed baseline are penalized, “tokens spent”. Stevenson/
Gittreville spirit on the other hand gains tokens (to spend elsewhere). Reducing performance and cost
are rewarded and poor community spirit is punished.The system recognizes that NONE of us are pure
and “transgressions” are assumed to be part of the Gittreville game. It becomes a matter of how many
transgressions and what is the builder doing socially to offset that! The vast majority of cars+builders will
end up comfortably in the GP class. Importantly, the GP class is divided into two sub-classes (GP1/ GP2)
with all the first class being placed on a given grid before the second class. Preference within a class will
be by chassis number (oldest to newest).A Formula Libre class car can generally assume that they will
not be running in the most coveted events.

This overlay is applied with consideration for the driver in the car in that event. If it is a two driver event,
the “more qualified driver” is used. As the builder of a car has always gained a beneficial token, that
generally will be the deciding score if he/ she is one of the drivers.

CLASSES are determined by totaling the tokens.

LUIGI STORERO: any total less than zero.
Gittreville’s aspirational class where reasonableness and generous community spirit are honored.

GRAND PRIX 1: totals of zero, one or two
GRAND PRIX 2: totals of three, four or five
The vast majority of entrants will fall in the GP class. GP1, a little “cleaner” goes in front.

FORMULA LIBRE: any total greater than five
Our ya-hoo category. Note that two of the four members of the Constructors Committee are the most
notorious performance chasing scoundrels in our group (in spite of our noble intentions). So, we know
the games and set this purgatory up for ourselves. If you find yourself in Formula Libre not because your
car is dramatically over the top, you need to step up and help with the events.

 

GITTREVILLE FUNDAMENTALS TOKEN SYSTEM

YES NO

FIT TO INSPIRATION CAR

– +1
– +1
– +1
-1 –
-1 –
+1 –
0 –
One of three type choices, no overlap.
+1 Did you build the car yourself?

DIMENSIONS and WEIGHT
– +1 Is front track in spec.? – +1 Is rear track in spec.? Track transgressions are cumulative

+1 – +1 –

Are front rims greater than 140 or tires greater than 2.50? (see exceptions) and/ or are wheels other than 17”? and/ or do tires have extreme tread? Are rear rims greater than 140 or tires greater than 2.50? (see exceptions) and/ or are wheels other than 17”? and/ or do tires have extreme tread? Are front tires greater than 2.75? (see exceptions)

Are rear tires greater than 2.75? (see exceptions)

+1 – +1 – -1 –

Lithium batteries?
Jack shaft or differential or rear suspension? [yes to any] One wheel drive [yes]

GITTREVILLE HOME TEAM

Is the position of the radiator (nose) relative to the front axle correct for the inspiration car? Is the driver in approximately the right place for the inspiration car?
Does the front suspension approximate the inspiration car?
The bodywork is mostly wood/ plastic

Car is based on a “Grand Prix” or “Indy” racer
Car is based on a “Special”, “Record” or “Hot Rod” Car is based on a sports car or passenger car

+1 –
+1 –
Tire and rim transgressions are cumulative

-1 –
+1 –
+1 –
+1 –
The three above are cumulative – this is our primary control -1 – Car weighs less than 226#

Are front rims less than 140 (Stevenson 120) Car weighs more than 250#
Car weighs more than 275#
Car weighs more than 300# (see exceptions)

PERFORMANCE/ COST – GAS

-1 –
+1 –
+1 –
+1 –
-1 –
PERFORMANCE/ COST – ELECTRIC +1 – Electric up to 5KW

Stock intake and exhaust?
Stage one intake and/ or exhaust?
Greater than Stage 1 upgrade? (big carbs) cumulative with above Jack shaft or differential or rear suspension? [yes to any]
One wheel drive?

-1 – Electric 3KW or less
Both above apply – cancelling each other – if you go electric, be modest

-1 –
-1 –
-1 –
+1 –
+1 –
Driver tokens are cumulative, the second line is a pile-it-on bonus. This section relates to the driver, not the car.

Driver has hosted a major GIttreville event
Driver has hosted a small event or multiple major events
Driver has hosted a section of Tieton
Driver has not marshaled/ volunteered an event in the previous year Driver has been black flagged or censured in the previous year