Type 13 - Fake Gas Tank
The Type 13 Bugatti’s two most recognizable features are the front horseshoe-shaped radiator, and the rear bolster gas tank. The bolster tank sits immediately behind the driver and is completely open and accessible, unlike current day car designs.
This design element, if implemented correctly, will make a very nice engine cover for the Predator 212 cc. In most examples I’ve seen online, they are mounted to the chassis via wood stands. The tanks are either painted to match the car color or are made out of copper. I will make the fake tank out of aluminum and finish it to appear as brass.
My build will include the two oval shaped ends and a hinged top that will give easy access to the engine for starting, filling the real gas tank, or performing maintenance. The two oval ends are bolted on and can be removed so the engine compartment can be entirely exposed.
The oval ends are made out of .040 aluminum with 90 degree bent edges all around the perimeter. A buck was made to form the pieces.
I next hard riveted a 1.75″ strip of .0400 aluminum around the perimeter using flush ANS-426-5 rivets. The metal assembly was then screwed to the wood stand which is supported by welded brackets on the chassis.
The completed pan was then screed onto wood stands that I made from pine and stained. The wood/aluminum structure was then mounted to the car frame using four 1/4-20 bolts. This would allow me to remove the fake gas tank for compete and easy access to the entire engine compartment.
Next, I took 1″ x 1/8″ aluminum and rolled it and riveted it to the top with large size pop rivets. I then framed across the two wood stands at the front and back using 3/4 aluminum 90 degree bent extrusions to connect the two side pieces and also provide a structure to fasten the aluminum top skin. I hinged the top skin at about the chair height so it could be opened like a engine hood.
The completed pan was then screed onto wood stands that I made from pine and stained. The wood/aluminum structure was then mounted to the car frame using four 1/4-20 bolts. This would allow me to remove the fake gas tank for compete and easy access to the entire engine compartment.
Next, I took 1″ x 1/8″ aluminum and rolled it and riveted it to the top with large size pop rivets. I then framed across the two wood stands at the front and back using 3/4 aluminum 90 degree bent extrusions to connect the two side pieces and also provide a structure to fasten the aluminum top skin. I hinged the top skin at about the chair height so it could be opened like an engine hood.
I rolled the top skins using my new roller/brake/shear combo tool from Harbor Freight. It did a great job rolling the skins to the shape I needed.
I discovered that the hinge point bound up any time I tried opening the top cover. There was too much flex, so I added a 1/2″ aluminum angle extrusion. This stiffened it up so it works properly now.